Controls are the job riders most often redo, and almost never because a part was wrong. It's because everything got torqued down before anyone sat on the bike.
Dry-fit, then sit on it
Bolt the control plate up finger-tight. Sit on the bike in your actual riding position — boots on, not sneakers — and run the shifter and the brake pedal through full travel before you tighten anything. Heel/toe setups especially: what looks right on the stand can put the heel shifter into your boot on the road.
Check pedal free play before you ride
After any change to the rear brake pedal or linkage, confirm the pedal has free play and the brake light isn't staying on. A pedal that sits under light pressure will drag the rear brake and cook the pad. Set it to the spec in your service manual.
Linkage length
Shift linkage is adjustable for a reason. Set the rod length so the lever sits where your boot naturally rests, then check you can still get a clean upshift without lifting your foot off the board. Lock the jam nuts.
Thread prep and finishes
Use the thread locker your manual specifies, and keep it off anodised faces — it marks them. Wipe fingerprints off anodising with isopropyl before the first ride; oils from your hands will show under sunlight once they bake in.
Don't reuse tired hardware
If a fastener was a one-time-use item from the factory, replace it. It's a few dollars against a control coming loose at speed.
Parts in this thread: Mid Controls Kit, Chocolates Floorboard Set, Heel/Toe Shifter Arm, Short Shift Linkage.
These are rider notes, not a service manual. Always use the torque values and procedures in the Harley-Davidson service manual for your year and model.
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